India day #6
Yesterday we left Chennai for Gobichettipalayam, and learned just how exciting it can be to travel at night in a place where one does not speak the language.
(When we left off, I had just declared that “Gobi is the sticks”.)
<13:51 28/01/2001>
50K people total, in a cramped town surrounded by sugar cane farms and rice paddies. Our first stop was my home for the next few days, a cozy, comfortable place in back of a pharmacy on the main road.My room was up some stairs and back from the street. It held a bed, table, chair, 2 stools, mirror, shelves, and a rack for hangers. Further back was a small bathroom with showers. They had given me fresh linens, sandalwood soap, towel, and toothpaste, and a new candle (for use during the frequent power cuts). One outlet was occupied by a mosquito-repellant system: the repellant was heated and dispresed by an electric element and air currents. At the top of each exterior wall was a small vent, giving the room great air circulation when the door and window were open.
Once I got cleaned up, breakfast — dosa and potato curry, with chai after. They kept offering a spoon and fork, but stubborn Jim said “no.” and got messy hands.
From there, a quick tour of town. We first visited a $GROUP_MEMBER who was opening a document-preparation business in grand Hindu fashion — he had even built a small ritual fire. (I had to remove my shoes to enter, in fact.) Here I met the movers and shakers of the club — including the mayor, who invited me to his office for tea (despite the fact that it was Republic Day and they were closed). I was served a sweet, cereal-like food and some chai.
From there, to the jeweller’s, where I was given a dark, flawless, 2 ct. turquoise, a Pepsi, and a wallet. Then, to the clothiers, where I was shown fine Kanchipuram saris (one of which contained gold-plated silver threads and cost Rs. 16,630!) and was given a shirt and dhoti of my own. Then to a doctor’s office, where I got the grand tour (I was instructed in the finer points of blood analysis) and another Pepsi before heading back for lunch, a simple dish of rice, dal, and chicken, with more chai. oy. I was given some downtime, good for writing and kicking back.
At four o’clock, we crossed the road (very cautiously) to the municipal building, where the mayor and a photographer were awaiting my arrival. The mayor draped a cloth around my shoulders (click, click) and formally welcomed me on behalf of the Municipal Council of Gobichettipalayam. He showed me around before taking me to his office, where I was served chai and small teacakes as we discussed the town history; municipal, state, and national government structure; the recent elections in the U.S. (I got to explain the Electoral College — oy!); and what he has done for the town (mostly using IMF grants). I was given a lacquered metal plate depicting a peacock (national bird) in full view of the photog, and we made our way out. As I left, I was invited to a meeting of his political party. (I accepted.)
Back to the house for a few hours for more rest, a little writing, and lots of reading (The Mother Tongue, by Bill Bryson — I had read and enjoyed it in high school). At 18:30 the mayor picked me up for the meeting. yeow. About 30 people, mostly men, stood outside the office, eager to meet me and shake my hand. We made our way inside (again, no shoes), where I was decked in a garland and handed a proclamation. I BS’d a short speech and was beset with a barrage of questions, about the average American’s perceptions of India, conflict in Kashmir, the BJP (ruling party in Parliament), Hinduism, the participation of Indians in the American software industry, and Indian immigrants in general, as well as about my $EMPLOYER’s programs, my club’s programs, and the recent elections in the U.S. (oy.) I was served ginger tea before photo-session and departure.
Again, to the house for a quick change into shirt and dhoti. (My host helped me.) from there to the club meeting, (19:30) where again, they were waiting for me. To the inside, where I again BS’d a speech, to wild applause. I was given a small Taj Mahal, a bangle box for my wife (um.), and a promise to send a Kanchipuram sari for her. (hehe.) Suffice to say, I was embarrased… Also more pics, for the two daily papers in town, of me in dhoti. Dinner outside, on banana leaves — more rice cakes and curry. Couldn’t carry water around, though, so I had to shotgun some at the end. Met all the club members. all of them. Encouraged a few youth to attend the convention in Sydney next year. Back to the house for 7Up (oy). Saw a Helsinki convention participant, Moby, in whose house I was staying. To bed, exhausted.
Next day (27/01) — up for morning tea at 08:30, a shower, then breakfast (more dosa) at 09:30. The mayor took me to two local temples, one of granite and the other marble, and gave an extensive lesson on Hindu. I was impressed, and took pictures, but they wouldn’t allow photos of any deities in shrines. (No problem.) They were building a new granite gateway, so I got good pics of the carvers at work (even though going barefoot on the granite shards HURT). Back home for a late (13:30) lunch, then rest before Thomas and Moby took me on a tour of the town (rice fields, bus station, wedding halls, etc.). Dinner, socialization with the family, bed.
EVERYWHERE I went in that town I was treated like a celebrity, with flashing cameras and throngs of people cheering and wanting to greet me and shake my hand. It was madness! (Of course, it didn’t help that I was given sugar and caffeine everywhere I went.)
I mentioned the sari offer to Fred… he was not amused. Even though it’s a four-hundred-dollar piece of hand-woven silk. (Fred wishes to clarify: he doesn’t think THEY would be too amused.)
As it turns out, there is a short Wikipedia article on Gobichettipalayam. Turns out the population figure I had been given was from the previous census, and that they had 20,000 extra people in town… not that I’m surprised, given the crowding in town, but still.
There are pictures from this day, but I need to figure out which ones to include. (I have a picture of myself in dhoti, holding Priscilla, but it’s quite blurry and I doubt I’ll post it.)
Next up, on Tuesday: jeem’s adventures in textiles, and a trip to Kerala.
Tags: Fred, India, Wikipedia
